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KARL MAYER at ITMA 2011 - Fira de Barcelona Gran Via - 22-29.09.2011
In its 'Lace' sector, KARL MAYER will be showing the new, highly productive Textronic® Lace TL 59/1/24 and the Jacquardtronic® Lace JL 40/1 F, which is currently in high demand for producing soft-shape lace.
On the topic of 'Elastic', the company will be showing the new RSJ 4/1 as a machine with an enhanced performance for producing attractive warp knits with a lace look.
KARL MAYER will also be showing how the DJ 6/2 EL and the Positive Patternbeam Drive (PPD) can be used to produce the 3D panties developed by the company, which feature a range of functional characteristics. The third machine in the group of exhibition machines for producing stretch fabrics is the HKS 2-3 E, which has a unique gauge of E 50. This is a real breakthrough in the efficient production of ultrafine, stretch warp knits for the lingerie and clothing sector.
The completely newly developed HKS 3-1 is a 'must see' for all manufacturers operating in the 'Rigid and Semitechnical' sector. This high-speed machine is the latest in the HKS machine series to be changed over to the successful CFP concept, and sets new standards in terms of speed among the three-bar tricot machines.
KARL MAYER's Warp Preparation business unit will show the new Multi-MATIC®. One of its new features is a completely new yarn management system, which can be used to efficiently and flexibly produce sample warps as well as production warps of average running length. The new PRO SIZE box is also designed to offer maximum productivity and flexibility, especially when setting the yarn density. The particular key to success here is the use of the latest application technology and intelligently designed application zones. KARL MAYER's warp preparation machines on show at the fair will be complemented by various holding devices and yarn tensioners, such as the Rot-O-Tense.
In Barcelona, the Technical Textiles business unit will be showing a laying module on the Malitronic® MULTIAXIAL C&L for processing spread-out carbon tapes from a flanged spool. The flanged spool is produced by an external fibre spreading unit - an off-line processing technique that increases productivity considerably compared to conventional processes when producing high-quality multiaxial textiles from heavy tow materials.
The following report gives more details of what visitors can expect in Barcelona.
An upgrade puts the DJ 6/2 EL on top form
At the ITMA fair a DJ 6/2 EL (Fig. 1) with integrated Positive Patternbeam Drive (PPD) will be exhibited. This innovative system actively supplies the knitting process with additional yarns from pattern beams at three locations, which enhances the functional aspects of the textile products.
In Barcelona, the DJ 6/2 will be producing 3D shapewear panties developed by KARL MAYER in a gauge of E 28, and will be incorporating additional elastane into specific zones in order to do this. The leg seams and the waist opening with its border are incorporated directly into the garment so that they do not roll over unattractively, and create smooth transition points between the garment and the body.
Fig. 1: The DJ 6/2 EL
The HKS 3-1 is now also available with CFP components - the final stage in the changeover of the HKS machine series
KARL MAYER has changed over its HKS 3-1 machine to incorporate CFP components to coincide with this year's ITMA exhibition (Fig. 2). This latest innovation is the final stage in the integration of this lightweight, stable material into its range of high-speed tricot machines. The result of this strategy is that the HKS 3-1 can now operate at much higher speeds and with greater temperature stability.
In order to change over the entire machine to operating at these higher speeds, all the movement sequences at the knitting point were harmonised more precisely with each other, and specific details were optimised. For example, the machine frame was upgraded by carrying out extensive computer-aided calculations. The yarn guide and tensioning devices were also modified.
In Barcelona, KARL MAYER will be showing an HKS 3-1 which, with a working width of 210", a gauge of E 28 and its new speed profile, is an outstanding example of three-bar tricot machines.
Fig. 2: The HKS 3-1 with CFP components
The HKS 2-3 E in a gauge of E 50: fine stitch densities create new fabrics
Gauges of E 32, E 40 and E 50 are state-of-the-art when producing lightweight, opaque, stretch fabrics and these exceptionally fine stitch densities have led to the development of completely new fabric characteristics.
In Barcelona, an HKS 2-3 E having a working width of 130" and a gauge of E 50 will be producing an exceptionally delicate, silky, micro-knitted fabric at its usual, impressive, high performance rate. This machine can reach speeds more than 3,000 min-1.
The new RSJ 4/1 - the quickest way to produce fabrics with a lace look
Light and airy lingerie fabrics with a lace look and sportswear incorporating functional zones are in increasing demand, and this demand can be stimulated even more by the completely newly developed RSJ 4/1 machine. The Rascheltronic® has been specifically optimised to make it considerably faster and more creative than its predecessor. The yarn feed system for the jacquard bars has been expressly modified to increase the range of patterns that can be produced. The yarns used to be delivered from a warp beam all together in a single assembly, but the yarns are now fed to both jacquard bars from two warp beams that are arranged as a mirror image in relation to each other. The separate feed arrangement enables the jacquard bars to execute opposite movements and thus to work patterned net grounds, for example. These fabrics, which have already become successfully established on the market as spot net fabrics, can now be produced much more efficiently on the RSJ 4/1. This innovative Rascheltronic® offers an impressive and more attractive price-performance ratio, in comparison with jacquard circular weft knitting machines.
At ITMA in Barcelona the Rascheltronic®, with a working width of 130", will be producing a lightweight fabric for the clothing sector in a gauge of E 28.
The JL 40/1 F produces functional yet exquisite lace
The JL 40/1 F produces lingerie fabrics with light-control effects, a soft handle and a low weight, but they also feature all the typical elements of fine, conventional lace. The JL 40/1 F has been equipped with a special bar configuration to enable it to produce fabrics with all these many characteristics. This new arrangement and the possibilities offered by the split yarn threading-in arrangement, mean that the jacquard guide bars can work to form stitches and smooth panel goods having light-control characteristics, without working the conventional pillar stitch/weft construction. The jacquard bars also enable simple yet effective spotted patterns to be worked in the dense, functional fabric bands. Fine lace fabrics with smart, comfortable compression characteristics are produced, which feature entwined floral and decorative elements as produced on multibar machines and which are used in the tapes and ribbons of lace lingerie (Figs. 3).
At the ITMA exhibition, the JL 40/1 F, with a width of 134" and a gauge of E 28, will be producing a sample of this fabric. The machine is designed to operate at a maximum speed of 750 min-1.
Fig. 3: Lace ribbons with soft-shape effects in the centre
Producing fine, high-quality lace efficiently - the new TL 59/1/24 makes it possible
The new TL 59/1/24 is designed to bridge the gap between the TL 43/1/24 and the TL 71/1/36. It is based on the same principles as its predecessor, but shows some improvements in terms of flexibility and efficiency. This new machine is available in a gauge of E 24 as well as in a gauge of E 28.
The TL 59/1/24 can also achieve an enhanced maximum speed. This exceptional speed has increased the price-performance ratio by 20 % compared to its predecessor. This success is mainly the result of integrating the well-tried string bar concept and the efficient KAMCOS® system. As an optional extra, the machine can also be equipped with the Positive Patternbeam Drive (PPD) for active, tension-controlled yarn feeding.
At the trade fair in Barcelona, the new TL 59/1/24, with a width of 130", will be producing sheer lace ribbons with a delicate pattern.
The Positive Patternbeam Drive (PPD) - an active contribution to extending the performance profile of raschel machines
The Positive Patternbeam Drive (PPD, Fig. 4) is a motor-driven delivery unit. It actively feeds yarn from the pattern beam to the knitting process and therefore offers a gentle handling especially when processing difficult fancy yarns at high speeds. Now there is no need to restrict the speed to 600 min-1.
Further advantages are a textile having an exceptionally uniform appearance and minimal downtimes compared to the passive system.
Maximum machine availability has been achieved, especially by using pattern beams having a package diameter of 14 cm, whose running time has been increased by a maximum of about 50%. However, above all, the PPD system dispenses with the time-consuming processes involved in balancing and rebalancing the pattern beams.
The PPD will be shown in use on various machines being exhibited at the ITMA exhibition.
Fig. 4: The Positive Patternbeam Drive
The technology of the Malitronic® MULTIAXIAL is improved to cater for specific applications
Regarding the multiaxial warp knitting machine KARL MAYER is showing a weft insertion system for the on-line processing of cut-to-length tapes for use in the processing of spread-out carbon material. There is the Malitronic® MULTIAXIAL C&L (Cut and Lay) for this application. So far, the spreading has been carried out in a closed process straight from the creel.
KARL MAYER has now separated the spreading process and the textile manufacturing process in order to process also heavy-tow-materials effectively with high quality, improve energy consumption and increase productivity and working width. The key feature of this new system is an external Fibre Spreading Line (FSL), which actively pulls the carbon tapes from the bobbins on the creel, homogenises the several rovings in order to width and grammage, merges them as defined together and winds the originated tape onto a double-flanged bobbin. This is having a maximum width of 600 mm. The yarn package, which is similar to a sectional warp beam, is then fed to the Malitronic® MULTIAXIAL C&L. The weft carriage of this innovative machine (Fig. 5) picks up the spread carbon fibre tape and lays it diagonally at a working width of 100", for example.
Compared to the on-line process, this two-stage process enables higher production speeds to be reached and energy to be used more efficiently.
KARL MAYER is showing a laying module at the exhibition, where it will be demonstrating the principles involved in laying the material that has been supplied from the double-flanged bobbin.
Fig. 5: Laying module for processing spread carbon tapes from the flanged spool
The Multi-MATIC® - a new warping machine for a new segment
This new machine Multi-MATIC® produces sample and production warps of average length at a maximum warping speed of 800 m/min and can process up to 128 yarns. With these features, this latest innovation from KARL MAYER is designed to bridge the gap between the GOM 24 and the Nov-O-Matic.
The Multi-MATIC® can process five times more yarns than the GOM 24, besides larger samples, more colours and different yarn material.
The yarns are taken off directly from bobbins on a standard creel, selected by means of yarn guides in line with the pattern, and placed either with or without using a rotating drum to build up the warp. The selection system is computer controlled and operates automatically on the basis of single thread selection. The yarn is placed at an accuracy of 0.05 mm and the acceleration of the linear motors is 200 m/sec2. The drum receives its movement impulses from a torque motor.
With these sophisticated features, the new Multi-MATIC® can process virtually every type of yarn - from silk and natural-fibre yarns through viscose, polyester and polyamide to filament yarns.
The Multi-MATIC® thus is a production machine that would enable company's clients to react quickly to the rapidly changing fashion trends of the current markets, with their short development cycles, and also allow them to produce even short runs economically.
PRO SIZE - an efficient and flexible sizing innovation
The innovative, compact size bath PRO SIZE applies the size extremely efficiently and flexibly. It can process every type of spun yarn, enables higher warp densities to be achieved than is currently the case, and can also operate at high size concentrations and viscosities.
In view of the process engineering the new size bath combines three highly turbulent, flow-intensive application zones, which are produced by pairing three counter-rollers with a common main roller, together with state-of-the-art technology for applying liquids, foams and pastes. This modern jet application system replaces the dipping process used until now. Before every nip point, this ensures that the sizing agent is applied to the yarn uniformly and in a controlled manner, minimises the amount of processing liquor required, and reduces the volume of effluent produced.
The warp yarn is transported in an assembly, without crossing each other and without twisting. Sticky, crossed yarns and yarn clumping are virtually eliminated and the optimum elongation can also be set.
The conventional size box with its dipping application system restricts the minimum yarn density to 40% of the total number of yarns as a function of the working width. The maximum yarn density should not exceed 80% of the total number of yarn ends.
When working with higher working widths, double size box systems having smaller widths - larger than 2,000 mm - have proved to be the most suitable.
PRO SIZE enables the minimum yarn density to be reduced to 20% of the total number of yarns and the maximum warp yarn density to be increased to 95%.
Even at high warp densities, a uniform film can be applied over the entire warp width in working widths of 2,400 mm, 2,800 mm or 3,200 mm using the innovative PRO SIZE machine with its single box system, i.e. a machine that has just one application system. PRO SIZE is also available with a working width of less than 2,400 mm, more specifically of 1,800 or 2,000 mm.
By using just one application system, the warp does not have to be divided into sections, and the processing effects are uniform for all the warp yarns - from application of the size, through drying to stretching. Reducing the length of the free yarn paths in post-drying also increases the yarn stability. The amount of waste, space required and handling processes are also reduced.
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