High fashion JL lace - direct from the developing

Classic lace produced on the JL 59/1 and JL 65/1F

(PresseBox) ( Obertshausen, )
The Jacquardtronic® Lace machine is one of the successful models in KARL MAYER's range of machines, which is why it is continually being improved and revamped. Work carried out by the company's own textile developers illustrates the effect of continuously improving the performance features on the range of fabrics that can be produced on these innovative machines.

The latest, innovative lace was produced on a JL 59/1 and JL 65/1F using the Positive Patternbeam Drive (PPD). Examples of these two fabrics will now be presented.

Modern lace produced in the Chantilly style on a JL 59/1

In order to demonstrate its patterning capabilities, the JL 59/1 was used to produce a classic lace with a modern twist. The pattern bears all the hallmarks of Chantilly lace, which was first produced by hand about 300 years ago and later on Leavers machines. It features a rococo style pattern with fine inlay yarns and thick edging yarns on a fine net ground (Fig. 1). However, the colour palette of this new textile is very different to the traditional, hand-made bobbin lace. Instead of black, which is typically used in Chantilly lace, the pattern produced on the Jacquardtronic® features a contrasting red/white/silver design - a colourway that is produced by using Lurex, polyamide and dyed polyester yarns. An alternative version using gold has also been developed.

The free-standing, decorative, floral motifs were produced with floating pattern yarns, which were cut open and shorn in a subsequent process. The full-width fabric was produced in the transverse direction to the working direction (cross lace) and has a border at the top and bottom. To produce this pattern, the Jacquardtronic® Lace was used in the new working width of 170" instead of the previous 134" and in a gauge of E 24.

No limits on bourdon cord thanks to the JL 65/1F with optimised PPD

This equally fine, classic lace was produced on the JL 65/1F. The filigree pattern features decorative tendrils of foliage running in broad arcs and a relatively dense net ground (Fig. 2). The sweeping, wavy pattern is similar to that of a clipped lace but, because of the long shog paths of the pattern bars, there is no need for the time-consuming step of removing the threads. The dynamic appearance of the fabric is enhanced by using relatively thick bourdon cord yarns. These liner yarns, which have an elastane core and a polyamide sheath, have a count of 1,800 dtex. Despite this challenging material, the machine reached the desired operating speed with no problems whatsoever when working this pattern. The JL 65/1F reached a speed of 800 min-1 when producing this fabric - an exceptional level of performance, in which the optimised PPD played a key role. This improved version controls the yarn feed on the basis of the pattern data and not on the basis of the yarn tension.
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