High fashion JL lace - direct from the developing
Classic lace produced on the JL 59/1 and JL 65/1F
The latest, innovative lace was produced on a JL 59/1 and JL 65/1F using the Positive Patternbeam Drive (PPD). Examples of these two fabrics will now be presented.
Modern lace produced in the Chantilly style on a JL 59/1
In order to demonstrate its patterning capabilities, the JL 59/1 was used to produce a classic lace with a modern twist. The pattern bears all the hallmarks of Chantilly lace, which was first produced by hand about 300 years ago and later on Leavers machines. It features a rococo style pattern with fine inlay yarns and thick edging yarns on a fine net ground (Fig. 1). However, the colour palette of this new textile is very different to the traditional, hand-made bobbin lace. Instead of black, which is typically used in Chantilly lace, the pattern produced on the Jacquardtronic® features a contrasting red/white/silver design - a colourway that is produced by using Lurex, polyamide and dyed polyester yarns. An alternative version using gold has also been developed.
The free-standing, decorative, floral motifs were produced with floating pattern yarns, which were cut open and shorn in a subsequent process. The full-width fabric was produced in the transverse direction to the working direction (cross lace) and has a border at the top and bottom. To produce this pattern, the Jacquardtronic® Lace was used in the new working width of 170" instead of the previous 134" and in a gauge of E 24.
No limits on bourdon cord thanks to the JL 65/1F with optimised PPD
This equally fine, classic lace was produced on the JL 65/1F. The filigree pattern features decorative tendrils of foliage running in broad arcs and a relatively dense net ground (Fig. 2). The sweeping, wavy pattern is similar to that of a clipped lace but, because of the long shog paths of the pattern bars, there is no need for the time-consuming step of removing the threads. The dynamic appearance of the fabric is enhanced by using relatively thick bourdon cord yarns. These liner yarns, which have an elastane core and a polyamide sheath, have a count of 1,800 dtex. Despite this challenging material, the machine reached the desired operating speed with no problems whatsoever when working this pattern. The JL 65/1F reached a speed of 800 min-1 when producing this fabric - an exceptional level of performance, in which the optimised PPD played a key role. This improved version controls the yarn feed on the basis of the pattern data and not on the basis of the yarn tension.
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